The skillful tailors of Hoi An are well-known throughout the world. Many of them can trace the trade through several generations of their family, and it’s not only women who are pulling a needle and thread. With deft fingers and a keen eye, they’re known by many as master craftsmen, able to copy any design they see. If you show them a picture of a coat, suit or dress, you can expect a nearly exact replica to be produced within 24-48 hours. The best tailor shops in Hoi An are well-known, and they are the reason that Vietnamese from all parts of the country will encourage you to visit this central city. Unfortunately, not every business operates honestly. The city has seen an increased number of tailor shops over the years because of those eager to capitalize on the influx of tourists looking for custom-made clothing. A larger variety of shops isn’t a bad thing, but the fallout of this explosion is that many of these tailors produce shoddy work. The supply has yet to exceed the demand and, as a result, some of these shops have less-qualified employees using lower-quality materials. Worse, the demand for quickly assembled clothes has led to the creation of overworked sweatshops. If you aren’t interested in giving your money to a questionable operation, read on for our tips on finding a great Hoi An tailor and how to handle the process of buying custom-made clothes.
Unless you’re specifically travelling to Hoi An to shop, most people tend to set aside a couple of nights’ stop in the town on their South-North/North-South route through Vietnam. While getting clothes tailored during such a short stay is technically possible, you are better allowing longer.
I’ve had eight items made by the tailors in Hoi An and what that has taught me is that the clothes never come out perfect first time. To get the most out of the tailoring process you need enough time for multiple fittings. In my experience, the magic number is three fittings, ideally across three days (two as an absolute minimum).
If you do have only two nights to play with, I would suggest ordering your items as soon as you arrive. Have the first fitting the next day (thought see my point below about overnight work) with a second fitting that evening and a final fitting early the following day before you leave.
My experience was a little different
from the way most tailor shops work. Normally, you would choose the
pieces of clothing you like, get fitted, and perhaps request a few minor
changes in the colour and pattern. You would then pay a deposit while
the clothes are being made, and pick them up a few days later.
I, however, was happy with the dresses
they had in the store, and because the samples fit me well, the
shop-keeper let me walk away with the dresses straight off the
mannequins. Only a few minor alterations needed to be made along the
inner torso seam on two of the dresses, but that was done in a matter of
minutes.
While all tailors can have an article of clothing ready for you within
24 hours, it’s best to allow for a few fitting sessions. We spent four
days in Hoi An, and in that time had three suits, three dresses, two
winter coats and much more made for us. This allowed us to find tailors
that we felt were trustworthy on the first day, then negotiate prices
and get measurements taken. During days two through four, we went back
in for fittings. The biggest mistakes visitors make are not staying long
enough in the city and not letting their tailor know how many days they
have in Hoi An. Expect that alterations and multiple fittings will be
necessary. It doesn’t make sense to go all the way to Hoi An only to
skip out on the step that ensures your handmade clothes are perfectly
tailored to your body.
While some of the tailors will have designs that are bang up to the minute, many were still toting the same designs I saw three years ago meaning you can’t necessarily rely on the tailor’s display items to be on trend.
It’s easy to find high-end tailors charging Western prices, but it is up to you to ensure you are getting superior work (a few of them are well-known for their intricate stitching or sequinned work) for the price you are paying. In a world where time equals money, this kind of detail isn’t – and shouldn’t be – cheap. But if you aren’t going to Hoi An for a custom-made wedding dress, there are tailors who create great formalwear (and casual items) at a lower price. The best way to ensure you are getting the most bang for your buck is to carry a checklist of what you want. This “cheat sheet” should hit all the corners that some tailors cut to save time and money during the production stages. Having a concrete list will help you stick with what is in your best interest and avoid getting sucked into hard-sell tactics that would leave you will substandard items. (Mike had one tailor try to hard sell him on Japanese silk for a suit when the best blend for him would have been cashmere-wool.)
Below is our checklist. Feel free to use it as a template and add your own ideas should you think of more things to ask the tailors.
- What type of fabric or fabric blend will be used
- Outside layer
- Inside liner
- Pocket lining
- What color or pattern will be used
- Outside layer
- Inside liner
- Pocket lining
- Stitching
- Buttons
- All items should be double stitched, also called blanket-stitching (this ensures your clothes won’t unravel the first time you launder them).
- Make sure design details are clear
- Overall design (front, back, sides)
- Pocket style
- Confirm that additional fittings are free of charge (there should never be a charge for this)
- Make sure your quoted price is inclusive of all taxes and additional fees
- Ask for a detailed, itemized receipt before any work is started on your clothes (especially before you hand over any money)
